For those who appreciate craftsmanship in their footwear, the feature of a Goodyear welt is something to aspire to. It is part of a tradition that has defined the best in shoemaking for well over a century and which enhances both comfort and sustainability. At the heart of Crockett & Jones’ reputation for excellence lies this time-honoured construction method - a quiet triumph of engineering, artisan skill and sartorial heritage.
The history of the Goodyear welt
The story begins in the late 19th century, when Charles Goodyear Jr., son of the inventor of vulcanised rubber, turned his attention to shoemaking. He produced the innovation which was key to the development of the welt which bears his name - a mechanical sewing machine capable of replicating the hand-welting process more efficiently and with greater consistency. Rather than leading to mass-market production and an overall reduction in quality, this has instead acted as a refinement of traditional techniques - one that has made high-quality construction more accessible while preserving the integrity of hand-crafted shoes.
The principle of the Goodyear welt is deceptively simple. A strip of leather (known as the welt) is stitched to both the upper and the insole of the shoe, forming a secure and durable bond. The outsole is then sewn to this welt, rather than directly to the upper. It is this additional layer that sets Goodyear welted shoes apart. The result is a more robust, weather-resistant, and comfortable piece of footwear that, with the right care, can last decades.
Crockett & Jones and the Goodyear welt
Implementation of the welt demands skill, precision, and patience - qualities that Crockett & Jones has in ample supply. From its Northampton workshop, the company continues to produce footwear where each pair undergoes a rigorous eight-week process, involving over 200 individual operations. This ensures that every pair of Crockett & Jones boots and shoes exemplifies the exacting standards which have come to be associated with the brand.
The advantages of a Goodyear welt
Beyond its historical prestige, the Goodyear welt has practical merits that modern wearers still find invaluable. Chief among them is the ease with which these shoes can be resoled. Because the outsole is attached to the welt rather than the upper, it can be replaced without compromising the structure of the shoe. In an age of disposability, the Goodyear welt offers an alternative: sustainability through longevity. A well-loved pair of Crockett & Jones boots might see several new soles over the course of its life, ageing gracefully rather than falling apart.
Is a Goodyear welted sole comfortable?
Though a Goodyear welted sole may feel firmer initially than its glued counterparts, it moulds to the foot over time, becoming uniquely fitted to its owner. Add to this the built-in cork filling that sits between insole and outsole, which offers both insulation and cushioning, and the result is footwear that becomes more comfortable with every wear.
Here are some of our personal favourites from Crockett & Jones which both feature a Goodyear welt, and showcase the aesthetics which set them above other footwear producers:
Crockett & Jones - Islay Dark Brown Scotch Grain Derby Boots
The Islay boots are available in both black and brown, and feature increased water resistance due to their Dainite rubber sole and storm welt. This can make them an invaluable asset when the weather is uncertain.
Crockett & Jones - Lowndes Pebble Grain Double Buckle Monk Shoes
The Lowndes is a true staple of the Crockett & Jones range, available in both black and dark brown burnished. The distinctive double buckle is a handsome feature crafted from antique calf leather.
Crockett & Jones - Brecon Dark Brown Country Grain Boots
As with the Islay boots above, the Brecon features a storm welt and a Dainite rubber sole which makes them the perfect choice when the weather is inclement.
Crockett & Jones - Weymouth 2 Black Calf Hand Grade Oxford
The Weymouth 2 is something special even amongst Crockett & Jones shoes, coming as it does from the Hand Grade collection. If you're looking for a distinctive choice for the office that meets the brief for both form and function, it's highly recommended.
Crockett & Jones - Belgrave Hand Grade Oxford Shoes
Available in black or chestnut, the Belgrave is also from the Hand Grade collection. Although featuring a different silhouette than the Weymouth 2, it is also a classic Oxford that would not look out of place in any formal setting.
No matter which pair you choose, you’ll find that Crockett & Jones footwear offers unparalleled comfort and quality that, with the right care, can last you a lifetime. If you’d like to visit the store, we’ll be happy to help you find the perfect pair in the right size for you.
